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Rudder plans. 7/5/06
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There are 16 stiffeners R-915's in the rudder. Each side of the rudder gets 8 . Here I'm marking out the cut lines. Each stiffener has to be angle cut to fit in the trailing edge. 7/11/06
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Cutting the first stiffener. The green handle snips work great for this. 7/11/06
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1 stiffener down, 15 to go. 7/11/06
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Angle cut and trimmed to the correct length. 7/11/06
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I cleaned up the stiffeners with the scotch bright wheel and then clecoed them to the left skin. 7/11/06
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Dimpling the rudder skin. 7/15/06
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First stiffener is back riveted to the skin. 7/17/06
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Back riveting sure makes for some smooth skins. 7/17/06
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The remaining 7 stiffeners are then back riveted. 7/17/06
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Stiffeners completed on the left rudder skin. 7/17/06
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Look at those rivets! 7/17/06
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Another shot of those rivets. 7/17/06
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Okay, here we go with the right skin. 8 more stiffners cut, deburred, match drilled, dimpled, primed and ready to rivet. I'll show the back rivet process step by step this time. The rivets are placed in the skin and I put one long piece of tape to hold the rivets. 7/19/06
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I flipped the skin over and placed it on the back rivet plate. 7/19/06
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Place the stiffener on the rivets and drive the rivets. 7/19/06
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One stiffener down. 7 more to go. 7/19/06
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Here is the finished side. Looking good! 7/19/06
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Finished riveting the remaining stiffeners on the right skin. 7/19/06
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Starting on the rudder skeleton. Here I've clecoed and match drilled the R-904 bottom rib to the R-902 main spar. The larger center hole has to be drilled for a plate nut. 7/19/06
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Fabricated the R-917 shim. 7/19/06
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Here you can see the R-917 shim in place. The R-405PD rudder horn goes over it. 7/19/06
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The R-405PD rudder horn clecoed in place. 7/19/06
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The reinforcement plate R-606PP goes on the front. A plate nut gets riveted to the plate. 7/19/06
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Here is the middle reinforcement plate R-607PP clecoed in place. 7/19/06
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And the tip plate R-608PP clecoed in place. 7/19/06
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Here the top rib R-903 and the counterbalance rib R-912 are clecoed to the main spar R-902. The counterbalance skin R-913 is then clecoed over both ribs. 7/19/06
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Here I'm checking the fit of the rudder skins. Everything looks good. 7/19/06
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Both skins are clecoed on and ready to be match drilled. 7/19/06
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The trailing edge of the rudder skins and the R-916 AEX wedge are clecoed together for final fit. 7/19/06
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The rudder horn brace R-710 is cut to fit and clecoed in place. 7/19/06
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The aluminum strips on the bottom are the R-918 attach strips. The fiberglass rudder tip attaches to these. Now its time to disassemble everything so it can be deburred, dimpled and primed. 7/19/06
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The counterbalance weight E-614-020 has to be countersunk and the counterbalance rib R-912 has to be dimpled. 7/26/06
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I grinded the top off of this mini C-Clamp and used it along with a pull dimple set to dimple the hard to reach areas. 8/2/06
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Here you can see the setup I used to countersink the trailing edge wedge R-916. Both sides have to be countersunk. 8/3/06
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Everything has been primed and its time to rivet. I riveted the top R-608PP and middle R-607PP reinforcement plates to the front spar. 8/3/06
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The R-912 counterbalance rib is riveted to the spar. Then the R-913 counterbalance skin is riveted to the rib. 8/3/06
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The top rib is left out so that the counterbalance weight can be bolted in. 8/3/06
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Next the R-904 bottom rib, R-606PP reinforcement plate, R-917 shim, and the R-405PD are riveted to the spar. 8/3/06
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Then the R-710 rudder horn brace is riveted in place. 8/4/06
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The left skin is clecoed in place. 8/4/06
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Both skins are clecoed on along with the trailing edge wedge. 8/4/06
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After the weight is secured the R-903 tip rib can be clecoed in place. 8/4/06
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The E-614-020 weight is bolted to the R-912 counterbalance rib. I torqued the nuts to 23 inch pounds and then covered the nuts with some RTV. 8/10/06
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The head of the bolts flush mounted in the R-912 counterbalance rib. 8/10/06
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R-903 tip rib riveted in place. I did not rivet the last couple holes toward the trailing edge. I will rivet these after I rivet the trailing edge. This will leave me more room to work on getting the trailing edge glued together. 8/10/06
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The skins were then riveted to the R-902 spar and the R-904 bottom rib. I havent decided what to do about the 4 rivets going into the R-710 horn brace. You can either use a longeron yoke to squeeze the rivets or use pull rivets. I dont have a longeron yoke and I dont want to use pull rivets. I'll worry about these later. 8/14/06
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I purchased some 1"x1" angle from Lowes and used the drill press to drill the angle to match the trailing edge. Here the angle is clecoed to the trailing edge for final fit and everything is nice and straight. 8/14/06
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Here you can see the trailing edge skins clecoed to the angle. 8/14/06
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As you can see it makes for a very nice straight edge. 8/14/06
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